Six days in the Dolomites: A summer Dolomites itinerary and guide

I did it again. Trawling through Instagram, I came across a fantastic photograph of a landscape that looked other worldly, like a scene from Middle Earth in Lord of the Rings. ‘Where is this magical place?‘ I thought, before looking at the location tag of the photo and realising it was in the Dolomites – a UNESCO world heritage mountain range in the north east of Italy. So, a plan was born, and I put together a summer Dolomites itinerary where we would spend six days exploring these wonderful landscapes.

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THE MAGNIFICENT ITALIAN DOLOMITES

There is something about the mountains that draws me in. The scale and grandeur of large mountain ranges seem to make everything else feel fairly insignificant – something which was very welcome after going through a difficult period. A place to forget about worries. A place to reset. As usual, I did my research. Where should we stay? Where should we visit? How accessible were the best photo opportunities and scenery? And finally, when was the best time to visit?

The internet told me that September was a great time to visit the Dolomites. The weather would be cooling down, yet still mild. The crowds that came in August to escape the searing heat of the rest of the country would be gone and it would be quieter. Perfect, I thought. Well, Mother Nature had different ideas. A couple of days before our trip I checked the local forecasts and there was snow (what seemed like significant amounts of snow) at higher elevations, along with temperatures into the minus °c’s. I needed to re-pack, take out some shorts and pack some sweaters, fleeces, hats and gloves!

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A SUMMER DOLOMITES ITINERARY

Located in north east Italy within the regions of Trentino, South Tyrol, Friuli-Venezia and Belluno,  and covering more than 6,000 square miles, the Dolomites mountain range offers some of the most spectacular landscapes in Europe. From its jagged peaks to its deep valleys, lush alpine meadows to its bright blue alpine lakes, it’s the perfect destination for an outdoor lover’s holiday. 

It’s not all about the extremes though, the Dolomites are also a place to relax and unwind with mountain spas, great gastronomy and fabulous wine. With such a vast area to cover and such a variety of places to visit, putting together a six day summer dolomites itinerary was a challenge. We opted to base ourselves in two locations – three days in the western dolomites and three days in the east. Our base for the start of the trip was the mountain town of Ortisei, with the second half focused around Lake Misurina.

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DOLOMITES ITINERARY, DAY ONE  – EXPLORING ORTISEI

Ortisei is the largest town in the valley of Val Gardena, located in the South Tyrol region of Italy. Situated at 1,236m above sea level and surrounded by snow peaked mountains, it is the ideal base for hiking in the summer and skiing in the winter. Being in South Tyrol (or Alto Adige as it is known in Italian) bordering Austria, the area has a very Austrian or German feel to it – the architecture and also the bilingual signage showing both German and Italian. In fact it was difficult to figure out which language to use – it was a case of seeing which language people spoke to you first, and then rolling with it.

The centre of Ortisei is mostly pedestrianised with a wide selection of cafes and bars, restaurants, shops and hotel resorts. Our base was at the HOTEL GARNI SNALTERHOF – a family run bed and breakfast on a piazza in the centre of the town. Staff were friendly and the rooms were comfortable and traditionally decorated.

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Although there was no bar or restaurant within the hotel, there was a fabulous restaurant next door called VEDL MULIN offering pizza alongside other Italian and Tyrolean dishes. For drinks in a casual and stylish setting,  LA CERCIA ENOTECA was a wonderful wine and cocktail bar. We called in a few times to sample the local wines, delicious and great value. There was an art gallery in the centre of town, which had a stunning photography exhibition and a beautiful church, the Chiesa Ortisei. Despite a fairly subtle exterior, the interior was absolutely jaw dropping. 

The perfect thing about being based in Ortisei was the mountain transportation. The town has three lifts to reach the mountains, all located centrally. There are two gondola systems travelling to both Seceda and the Seiser Alm, and a funicular railway travelling to Resciesa.

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DOLOMITES ITINERARY, DAY TWO – THE JAGGED PEAKS OF SECEDA

Our first journey into the mountains took us to Seceda. Quite fitting really, given that the photo I had seen on Instagram was taken here. This location was reached by the Ortisei-Furnes-Seceda cable car, including two separate cable car journeys to reach the summit station at 2,500m. The first, a meandering journey across the meadows and forests on a small gondola, followed by a steep and rather nerve-wracking climb up the cliffside to the mountain station.

The views that await when exiting the station are said to be breathtaking. Or should be. Our view was one of mist and very minimal visibility. So minimal in fact, that we couldn’t actually see anything beyond the station building and adjacent restaurant. Slightly dejected, we wandered into the thick mist in the hope that it would clear, offering us the views we had travelled to Italy for. The benefit of being so high up in the mountains is that the weather moves quickly. Within minutes of our arrival onto the mountain, the fast moving clouds started clearing from below offering us a beautifully dramatic scene of the valley below and the mountain pastures covered in a blanket of snow.

Setting off from the gondola station on a short hike, the mountain side featured a huge collection of hiking trails, and although some sections were fairly steep, it was quite manageable. We headed up towards a panorama point, but as the clouds raced in again, within minutes we were surrounded by grey gloom and a chilly brisk wind. Was I going to get that view that I so desperately wanted? Heading back down to the mountain restaurant, we stopped for a quick lunch and a local beer, gazing out and watching the clouds clearing once again.

Looking more promising, we quickly set off up to the panorama point and along the ridge of the mountain. As the clouds lifted, the jagged peaks of the Torri di Fermeda slowly appeared. This is what I was waiting for. Spectacular and dramatic, there it was – the Lord of the Rings-esque landscape I had wanted to see. No sooner had the clouds lifted to offer me these fleeting glimpses, another bank rolled in and plunged them back behind a murky grey fog.

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DOLOMITES, DAY THREE – WALKING ON THE SEISER ALM (ALPE DE SUISI)

What a difference a day makes. We opened the window shutters on day three of our Dolomites itinerary to a gorgeous blue sky and perfect mountain views. On the south side of Ortisei lies the Ortisei-Seiser Alm gondola, transporting passengers to Seiser Alm (Italian) or Alpe de Suisi (German). Seiser Alm, at fifty six square kilometres, is the largest high altitude alpine meadow in Europe. The journey up by gondola takes about 10 minutes to an altitude of 2,000m above sea level and provides a vast playground of hiking trails, mountain hut restaurants, high end spa hotels and the most breathtaking scenery.

The scene upon leaving the gondola station – pine forests and rolling green meadows with the backdrop of the jagged mountains of Langkofel and Platkofel was simply beautiful. Heavy rain the night before had washed away any remnants of snow from the area, leaving a lovely summery scene stretched out as far as the eye could see. Every trail and angle offered majestic views. It was also very peaceful. Despite there being access to the area by road, there was barely any traffic noise and only the relaxing clang of cow bells of the herd that was roaming free on the pastures.

Dotted around on the Seiser Alm, a number of alpine huts offered respite from the hiking. You’re probably never more than thirty minutes’ walk away from somewhere to rest your legs, grab a lovely local dish and a cold continental beer. Our favourite alpine hut on Seiser Alm was the SANON HUT with a lovely terrace overlooking the alpine meadows and mountains. With a couple of stops thrown in, we spent a few hours wandering the hiking trails of the area, imagining how magnificent the night skies would be up here. Next time, perhaps.

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DOLOMITES ITINERARY, DAY FOUR – THE JOURNEY TO MISURINA

Day four of our Dolomites itinerary took us on a road trip, traversing from the western Dolomites across to the east for our final three days. Our journey to Lago di Misurina (Lake Misurina) would take us along a small section of the Great Dolomites Road into Cortina d’Ampezzo, with a slight detour to visit a church. A very small church. Due to a technical hitch with the car’s sat-nav sending us down a single track road that ended up being closed meaning turning around in someone’s garden, this church had a lot to live up to.

The Chiesetta di San Giovanni in Ranui is located just outside the village of Santa Maddalena in the Val di Funes valley. A Baroque church dating back to 1744, the tiny building sits in the middle of a meadow with a backdrop of pine forests and the Odle mountain range. In a familiar turn of events for the trip, the mountain range was hidden by dense clouds. Nevertheless, the church itself, nestled in the valley, was beautiful.

 

There are rumours on the internet that this is the most photographed church in the world. I am not sure that I believe this, given that we were the only people there and the local area seemed fairly deserted.

Moving on from Santa Maddalena, the sat-nav decided to send us on a hair-raising journey along mountain-side single track roads for about an hour before reaching wider and less challenging roads. We arrived onto the Great Dolomites Road at the Passo Falzarego – this being the highest point of the journey. A nice spot to stop for lunch, to take in the views and admire the bravery of the people travelling on the cable car. Heading down towards and through the town of Cortina d’Ampezzo, we then headed back into the mountains to finally reach our destination of Lake Misurina.

THE BEAUTY OF LAGO DI MISURINA

Lake Misurina, the ‘Pearl of the Dolomites‘ sits 1,756m above sea level, at the edge of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo National Park. With a 2.6km circumference providing a lovely circular walk and a micro-climate that provides pure and health-giving air, it was a great base for a few days. A number of hotels, restaurants and souvenir shops are dotted along the lakeshore, accommodating the tourists heading up to the national park during high season.

We stayed for three nights at a small family run hotel and restaurant on the north shore of the lake.. The first floor rooms of the hotel all offered balcony views across the glassy lake surface, with a fabulous mountain backdrop. Guest rooms were functional and nicely decorated, and the restaurant offered a great menu but they did get busy from the overspill from the large hotel next door, so it was worthwhile booking to secure a table.

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The best thing about the location at Lake Misurina were the ever changing views. Looking across to the southern end of the lake, the clouds lifting from the valley beyond the lake caused the mountain backdrop to disappear and reappear continuously. The circular walk around the lake also gave some great views of the national park to the north, which was on the schedule for the following day.

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DOLOMITES, DAY FIVE – A HIKE TO TRE CIME DI LAVADERO

Tre Cime di Lavaredo, known in German as Drei Zinnen, are three distinctive peaks within the national park, and probably one of the most photographed mountain groups in the Dolomites. The hiking trails that surround these peaks offer some of the greatest views in the national park and should be high on anyone’s Dolomites itinerary. It was clear that it was going to be popular given the amount of vehicles in the car park at the start of the trailhead, having paid a €30 (2023 prices) toll fee to use the road. 

The trail head begins at Rifugio Auronzo, a mountain hut at 2,330m, before heading along the south side of the Tre Cime peaks on a pathway carved into the hillside with a fairly steep and long drop to one side. Despite the slightly distracting drop, the trail offers some fantastic views along the way including  the beautiful Capella degli Alpini – a small church located along the path. Continuing on, and about thirty minutes into the hike, the Rifugio Lavaredo offers a great break stop.

Rifugio Lavaredo sits directly under the three peaks, which tower above. From this point, the trail heads up to the Forcella Lavaredo at 2,545m directly east of the Tre Cime. This climb, while more challenging than the initial section of the hike, was definitely worthwhile – offering a 360° panoramic view of the surrounding landscape. Reaching this high point, the clouds cleared and the three peaks came into full view allowing some time to admire the sheer scale. And then the snow began to fall.

The Forcella Lavaredo is less than halfway into the popular Tre Cime circular route, and with the clouds closing in and the snow falling harder, I made the decision to turn back rather than continue for the full circuit. As I made my way back along the mountainside trail towards the starting point of Rifugio Auronzo, low clouds had enveloped the area, with minimal visibility. The journey back was an eerie experience, just me and the occasional hiker appearing ahead of me from the cloud. Arriving safely back at the Rifugio, it was time for a lunch break and waiting for the weather to clear before setting off.

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DOLOMITES ITINERARY, DAY SIX – THE BEAUTY OF LAGO DI BRAIES

The final full day in the Dolomites. The final place to visit on our Dolomites itinerary, and it was well worth the wait. Lago di Braies (Pragser Wildsee) is an alpine lake situated at 1,469m above sea level, and a forty five minute drive from Lake Misurina. Located in a sheltered valley, it is considered to be the most beautiful lake in South Tyrol. Upon arriving, I wasn’t able to argue with such a statement.

The first glimpse of the lake offered clear reflections of the surrounding mountains in the emerald green waters. Yes, this lake was definitely beautiful. Aside from a hotel, a small restaurant, the boathouse and small church on the north shore, the remainder of the lake surroundings are untouched.

A circular hiking trail runs the entire way around the lake. This trail, which is about 4km in total, has only a few changes in elevation making this a great hike for visitors of all fitness levels. We did one loop of the lake which took about an hour at a fairly slow pace, often stopping to take in the wonderful scenery. 

Arriving back to the north lake shore, provided the opportunity to take a closer at the Capella Lago di Braies, as well as taking a walk on the wooden pontoons around the boat house. This iconic boathouse, surrounded by the wooden rowing boats which are available for hire, offer striking photo opportunities and are an Instagrammers dream.

There are no words to describe the beauty of Lago di Braies, which was the perfect end to our six day Dolomites itinerary. For anyone who is a fan of mountain landscapes, alpine lakes and dramatic scenery, this area of Italy is a must visit. A breath of fresh air. Literally.

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GETTING TO THE DOLOMITES

We flew into Innsbruck, Austria with British Airways – a short flight of 1h 25m from London. The Dolomites area can also be accessed easily from the south, flying into Venice or Verona. 

A hire car was booked through Sixt – our first of many experiences with this company who I have nothing but praise for and have continually used since.

From Innsbruck, heading south into Italy on the A13 Autobahn, the journey of 112km to Ortisei took just over 1.5 hours, the scenery becoming more dramatic as we headed further south.

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