Meander through the majestic landscapes of the Eryri National Park in the comfort of a vintage carriage on a Welsh Highland Railway steam train from Caernarfon to Porthmadog.
There’s a wonderful romanticism about stream train journeys. Relaxing in the comfort of a vintage carriage as stunning scenery passes by, viewed through the panoramic windows. North Wales has a wealth of options when it comes to steam train journeys, with the Ffestiniog & Welsh Highland Railways offering a number of routes through the Eryri National Park (Snowdonia). Having longed to take one of these journeys for a good while, we opted to take a trip on the Seren Eryri or Snowdonia Star, which would transport us from Caernarfon to Porthmadog and back, directly through the heart of the national park.
Disclosure: We used a voucher for our steam train experience, but our ticket was upgraded by Welsh Highland Railway. Making bookings through links on this page may earn me a small commission and assist in the upkeep of this website at no extra cost to you. Thank you for your support.
TRAVELLING ON THE FFESTINIOG & WELSH HIGHLAND RAILWAY
The FFESTINIOG RAILWAY and the WELSH HIGHLAND RAILWAY lines are steeped in history, transporting guests through some of the most incredible landscapes of North Wales. The Ffestiniog Railway is the oldest narrow-gauge railway in the world, dating back some 200 years while the Welsh Highland Railway is the longest heritage railway in the UK, running 25 miles from Caernarfon to Porthmadog with some iconic stops along the way. With both standard and first class Pullman Carriages, the experience of riding the Ffestiniog and Welsh Highland Railway is a must-do when visiting North Wales and Eryri.
With nine different routes to choose from, the journeys start from either Caernarfon, Porthmadog or Bleanau Ffestiniog. Each route offers a variation in time and distance, providing many different options.
TRAINS FROM PORTHMADOG
MOUNTAIN SPIRIT (YSBRYD Y MYNYDD) | The flagship Ffestiniog Railway journey, Mountain Spirit heads from the coastal town of Porthmadog into the slate landscapes of Blaenau Ffestiniog.
THE ABERGLASLYN (YR ABERGLASLYN) | This stunning journey heads from Porthmadog into the heart of Eryri and the beautiful village of Beddgelert, passing through the incredibly scenic Aberglaslyn Pass.
WOODLAND WANDERER (CRWYDRWR Y GOEDWIG) | This short heritage service heads along the Ffestiniog Railway line to Tan Y Bwlch station with some time to spend at the station tea-room before the return journey.
THE HARBOURMASTER (YR HARBWRFESITR) | The premier Harbourmaster route heads north along the full Welsh Highland Railway line from Porthmadog to Caernarfon, and back.
THE VICTORIAN (Y FICTORAIDD) | Another route from Porthmadog to Tan-y-Bwlch station, with a heritage experience and an option to take a tour of Boston Lodge Works.
TRAINS FROM CAERNARFON
GELERT EXPLORER (FFORIWR GELERT) | This five hour return trip heads into the beautiful village of Beddgelert, allowing some time to explore before the return trip.
SNOWDONIA STAR (SEREN ERYRI) | A coast to coast journey, Snowdonia Star covers the same journey as The Harbourmaster but in reverse.
WHISTLING DRAGON (CHWIB Y DDRAIG) | A new steam train experience, this short journey heads to Rhyd Ddu station offering some great views of Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon) on a clear day.
TRAINS FROM BLAENAU FFESTINIOG
THE QUARRYMAN (Y CHWARELWR) | This fabulous journey from the UNESCO Slate Landscape of Wales to the coastal town of Porthmadog provides epic views of Eryri.
TAKE A WELSH HIGHLAND RAILWAY STEAM TRAIN FROM CAERNARFON TO PORTHMADOG
Having wanted to make the most of our experience, we decided to embark on the Seren Eryri / Snowdonia Star route, which would transport us along the full 25-mile Welsh Highland Railway route from Caernarfon to Porthmadog. The journey would take approximately 2 hours 30 minutes each way, allowing a stop of 1 hour 45 minutes to explore Porthmadog before returning. Having stayed overnight in Caernarfon, we headed to the impressive £3.5 million Caernarfon Station ready for our 10.15am departure.
Located in the heart of Caernarfon near the impressive 13th century Caernarfon Castle, the station was reopened in 2019 following a large renovation project. The new and modern station houses a cafe, gift shop, WC facilities and seating areas, ideal to pass time before boarding the train.
FIRST CLASS PULLMAN CARRIAGES
As boarding commenced, we headed out onto the platform to find our First Class Pullman Carriage was located to the rear of the train, nearest the station building. Five of the nine services offered include a ‘Go Gold’ package providing access to the First Class carriages. These beautiful carriages, whilst modern, retained the ageless and luxurious feel of train travel in years gone by. With wooden panelling complimented by brass fixtures and fittings, a row of single armchairs ran along each side with large panoramic windows, and a wooden table per seat. To the front of the carriage, free-standing armchairs provided comfort and panoramic views.
The additional benefit of the Pullman First Class experience was the at-seat service for food and drinks. Whilst the menu was limited, there was a range of hot and cold drinks, afternoon teas, Prosecco, wines and local beers. We enjoyed some snacks on the outbound journey with an Afternoon Tea on the return leg.
THE TRAIN JOURNEY THROUGH ERYRI
Setting off, our steam train from Caernarfon to Porthmadog slowly made its way out of the town and into the open countryside. What had started off as a promising weather day soon turned gloomy as we headed into Eryri, with low cloud and drizzle providing some atmospheric views. The mountain ranges dipped in and out of the clouds as we progressed inland, the coal-fired engine pulling us through the landscape – the chugging of the train often interrupted by a loud hiss of steam or a high pitched whistle. With the Pullman Carriage in reverse formation, we travelled the first leg of the journey backwards with unobstructed views of the surrounding greenery.
Passing through Waunfawr station, we then had a brief stop at Rhyd Ddu station while waiting for The Harbourmaster train to pass at the double track section in the station. We then continued through the forests and rock tunnels before arriving into Beddgelert station and onwards through the Aberglaslyn Gorge, following the river snaking its way through the woodland. The further south we headed, the clouds cleared and the dramatic scenery presented itself around us before we arrived at our final destination in Porthmadog.
EXPLORING PORTHMADOG
With just under two hours to spend in Porthmadog, we explored the pretty station and stopped for a snack at Spooner’s, the popular station cafe. We wandered Porthmadog’s high street, busy with summer visitors spilling out of the cafes and pubs, before returning to the station and talking a walk across the Cob – a mile long section of road, railway line and Wales Coast Path crossing the Afon Dwyryd estuary. With the weather continually improving, the Cob provided some fabulous views across the wetlands and nature reserve with a mountain backdrop including the triangular peak of Cnicht, Wales’ answer to the Matterhorn.
Having spent some more time on the station platforms watching the other trains passing through and taking in the views, we boarded Seren Eryri for the return journey back to Caernarfon. Having changed formation, the Pullman First Class Carriage was now at the front of the train, facing forwards and directly behind the engine. Whilst this reduced the forward view, the panoramic windows to both sides provided impressive scenery including a great view of Yr Wyddfa horseshoe as we headed north towards Beddgelert, and further on at Rhyd Ddu. Returning back to our starting point and completing our trip on the Welsh Highland Railway, we headed back into the town to explore further.
EXTEND YOUR STAY IN CAERNARFON
If you’re looking for a base for your weekend break in North West Wales, Caernarfon provides great location to explore the coastline and mountains of Eryri. This attractive town, packed full of colourful buildings and historical architecture has plentiful restaurants, bars, cafes and attractions to keep visitors busy without even needing to venture further afield.
Having visited a number of times briefly, we opted to stay for the two nights surrounding our Welsh Highland Railway steam train experience. Visiting during the summer months provided the opportunity to spend as much time outdoors as possible, and despite the drizzly weather during the early train journey, the remainder of the weekend was glorious.
WHERE TO STAY | Our two night stay at THE BLACK BOY INN in the heart of the town provided everything we needed. This historic building is one of Wales’ oldest inns, with a number of en-suite rooms housed within several buildings. With a large restaurant on site, The Black Boy Inn also has the warmth and charm of a traditional pub.
THE BEST ATTRACTIONS | The signature and stand out attraction in Caernarfon is King Edward I’s impressive fortress of CAERNARFON CASTLE. Dating back to medieval times, this castle took 45 years to build and still stands as one of the most impressive with its polygonal towers and turrets. In the shadow of the castle, CEI LLECHI or Slate Quay is a regeneration development of the old Harbour Office and surrounding derelict buildings, creating a space for local artisan producers, a gallery, cafes and self-catering accommodation.
DINING AND DRINKING IN CAERNARFON | There’s no shortage of pubs and restaurants in Caernarfon – the choices are endless. For an afternoon drink on a sunny day, head to the ANGLESEY ARMS and take a seat on the outdoor terrace ovelrlooking the Menai Straits. BAR BACH on Greengate Street is the smallest pub in Wales, so you’ll be lucky to find a seat on busy evening, but it’s well worth a visit. Stopping by Cei Llechi, BECWS MELYS is a great spot for lunch or coffee and cake, and LA MARINA CEI makes for a great evening destination.
WHERE TO FIND THE BEST VIEWS | The best views of Caernarfon can be found by crossing PONT YR ABER, which crosses the Afon Seiont next to castle. Talking a stroll along Aber Foreshore Road provides great views back towards Caernarfon Castle and the 13th century town walls. Another great vantage point of the castle is from the bridge across the railway at Caernarfon Station.
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