A Cwm Idwal walk from the Ogwen Valley: Stunning winter scenery in Snowdonia

Heading inland from Bethesda in North Wales, the view ahead is of a river winding along a flat valley floor. To both sides, steep and rocky mountain faces climb steeply and disappear into the low hanging clouds. The scenery becomes more dramatic as the road snakes its way along the edge of the valley. Towering and imposing rock faces hundreds of metres tall, waterfalls tumbling down through the rocks. This is Snowdonia (or Eryri in Welsh) at its atmospheric best. I’m heading to one of my very favourite spots – somewhere I can escape with my thoughts, breathe in the fresh mountain air and walk in the wilderness. Somewhere I can visit with friends and hope they are affected in the same way by this magical place. I’m heading to take a Cwm Idwal walk from the Ogwen Valley, to capture some stunning winter scenery in Snowdonia.

There have been times in the past where I’ve felt like I’ve had Cwm Idwal almost to myself, passing only a handful of casual hikers while walking. Those days seem to be gone now though. The ‘staycation’ boom during the Covid-19 pandemic has seen a huge increase in visitors to Snowdonia, and the lesser known areas are now becoming as popular as the main tourist hotspots. That said, overcast days during the winter months may keep some of the crowds at bay, so it’s worth heading up to the spectacular Ogwen Valley and trying to get yourself a parking spot before heading out on foot to explore.

---

A scenic Cwm Idwal walk from the Ogwen Valley

The stunning Ogwen Valley (Dyffryn Ogwen) is one of the most beautiful spots in Snowdonia. The valley separates two mountain ranges – the Carneddau range to the north and the Glyderau to the south. Some of the highest peaks in Wales can be found in this area, making it a popular starting route for many hikes. The more seasoned and experienced hikers will head for Tryfan, Glyder Fawr, Glyder Fach, or Pen yr Ole Wen. For the less seasoned hikers (like me) who are interested in stunning scenery rather potentially risky scrambles, Cwm Idwal provides a range of routes that will suit everyone from families and dog walkers, to hardcore mountaineers.

The starting point for the walk

The starting point for any Cwm Idwal walk begins on the western end of Llyn Ogwen, at the Ogwen Visitor Centre. There is a Pay and Display car park located at the centre, along with some information about the area, a kiosk serving hot and cold snacks as well as toilets. To the left of the Visitor Centre, a pathway leads up towards the main route. There are two options of route to take at this point. Heading left leads up a pathway towards the main walking trail to Cwm Idwal, passing through an ornate cast iron gate. Taking the right turn leads into a deep crevice to a stile which crosses a dry stone wall. Whilst this secondary option is more uneven, it’s an impressive section of path and I’d recommend taking this route on the way out.

Climbing over stile, the pathway passes along the narrow crevice for a short time before reaching a set of uneven stone steps and into the fields above offering the first views of the Cwm Idwal’s cliff faces forming a protective semi circle around the lake below. Following the pathway and crossing another stile leads into the second field, providing the perfect opportunity to take a look back at the channel carved into the rock, with the impressive backdrop of Pen yr Ole Wen looming behind – the most southerly of the Carneddau Range mountains in Snowdonia.

Following the path through this field can be slightly tricky in winter, especially in the wetter months, as many streams make their way through the land. The ground can become moist and boggy in some areas, so hiking boots are definitely required for this route. I’d recommend hiking boots for any Snowdonia walks, as there are a lot of uneven surfaces that can get slippery after rain, which as you might guess, is not a particular rarity in these parts. This section of the walk provides fabulous views back towards the Ogwen Valley and Llyn Ogwen below, along with a great overview of the Nant Francon Pass winding its way towards Bethesda and Bangor.

The first views of Llyn Idwal

Reaching the top of the steady incline through this field and crossing another stile provides the first views of Llyn Idwal sitting in the impressive valley. The view from the northern shores of the lake is spectacular, with steep cliff faces climbing into the clouds and waterfalls cascading down the mountainside, hundreds of feet high. To the left, the summits of Glyder Fawr and Glyder Fach sit high above the lake, and to the right of Llyn Idwal, Y Garn towers over the landscape.

To the centre of this backdrop, what looks a rockfall of giant boulders leads up to deep and dark crack in the cliff top known as Devil’s Kitchen. In certain conditions steam can be seen rising up from this crack, hence the name, but not today. The stone walls separating the land alongside Llyn Idwal reach into the still and clear water, creating perfect reflections on the surface. Even under cloud cover, this place is beautiful.

A walk to the back of the Llyn Idwal

There’s a footpath that completely circumnavigates Llyn Idwal, providing the opportunity to complete a circular route around the lake. Heading from the north shore of the lake in an anti clockwise direction, the path follows the water’s edge before passing through a gateway and begins a short climb away from the lake. The stairway leading up the hillside is surrounded by heathland flora such as heather and gorse, which is vibrant in the late summer months. This landscape contrasts beautifully with the massive imposing cliff faces beyond, known as Idwal Slabs – hugely popular with rock climbers. Its always worth taking a closer look to try and spot some climbers – tiny colourful dots against the grey rock.

The pathway plateaus and continues along a ridge in the hillside. The ground is uneven, but relatively flat for a while before gradually dropping down to near lake level.  At this point the path forks and there is a choice. A choice to continue on the circular route of the lake by taking the left hand fork along a relatively flat section of ground. The second choice is to continue forward toward the base of the giant boulder rockfall and head upwards.

Epic views on the route of the Cwm Idwal walk

The pathway gradually starts to climb and as the landscape becomes steeper, so do the stone steps. The steps become uneven in some sections, some shallow while others are high. Streams and waterfalls cascade down the mountainside making the ground wet, so again, sensible and sturdy footwear is a godsend. Continuing uphill, there are some sections where it appears the pathway disappears completely, but small climbs over a couple of large rocks here and there bring it back into view.

Reaching about halfway up the mountainside, there seems to be an obvious point where the hike becomes tougher, with a bit more skill would be required. This was my queue to stop, turn around and take in the panoramic view of Cwm Idwal, Llyn Idwal below and the backdrop of the Ogwen Valley and Pen yr Ole Wen. It’s hard to disagree that this is one of the best viewpoints of the Snowdonia National Park.

There are various options on the Cwm Idwal walk from this point, depending on skill level and conditions. The more skilled hikers may want to continue upward toward Devil’s Kitchen, which becomes a tougher climb the higher up the pathway goes. From Devil’s Kitchen there are routes to the summits of Glyder Fach and Glyder Fawr, which have some spectacular rock formations and scenery. We’ll cover those another day. There is also a circular route halfway up this mountainside that can be joined – this leads back down to the main circular route around the Llyn Idwal. For me, with it getting late in the day, I opted to head back down the way that I came. I took some time to explore the southern shore of Llyn Idwal before continuing back around the lake.

Following the path back to the north shore of the lake, I then opted to take the main route back to the Visitor Centre. A clearly marked and gentle footpath meanders through the fields, roughly following the Afon Idwal as it gently trickles through the landscape. There are a number of points where the pathway crosses the river over a number of small stone bridges, but reaching the end of the pathway the most photogenic spot is a wooden footbridge where a waterfall cascades under on its way to Llyn Ogwen on the valley floor. Heading back through the iron gateway leads back to the starting point of the walk.

---

Useful information for your Cwm Idwal walk

GETTING TO THE OGWEN VALLEY

BY CAR: Llyn Ogwen and the Ogwen Visitor Centre are located on the A5 road which runs through the heart of Snowdonia. From the A55 North Wales Expressway at Bangor, the journey along the A5 is approximately 20 minutes. Likewise, from the east, the A5 heads from the popular mountain village of Betws-y-Coed and takes approximately 20 minutes to reach Llyn Ogwen by car.

With the huge rise in popularity of Snowdonia over the past few years, there is a significant push for visitors to use public transport to get around the National Park. Large numbers of visitors in 2020 created significant traffic issues around the area, with dangerous parking along roads and pavements. There have been some significant changes in parking rules in Snowdonia following this – be sure to plan ahead on the SNOWDONIA NATIONAL PARK website.

BUS: Travelling by public transport is highly recommended if possible. It generates less traffic, and less parking charges for visitors. The SNOWDON SHERPA bus routes cover the whole national park with regular services and day tickets are available at £5.00 for adults and £2.50 for children. The route between Bangor and Betws-y-Coed covers the Llyn Ogwen area.

CAR PARKING: Car Parking is very hit or miss in the Llyn Ogwen area depending on when you visit, and what time of day. Along the edge of Llyn Ogwen there are a number of car parking layby’s, many of which are ideally situated for some of the most popular hiking routes in the area. These parking areas are free of charge but get busy very quickly and can be full early in the morning. There is a Pay & Display car park located next to the Ogwen Visitor Centre. It’s relatively small, but ideal for a Cwm Idwal walk and offers contactless payments as well as cash.

BE PREPARED: In any mountain region it’s important to be prepared for all weathers and conditions. Living in North Wales, particularly in the summer months, there are regular local news articles of people being injured out in the mountains due to being ill prepared or dressed inappropriately. Despite there being well tended footpaths around the whole of Snowdonia, the landscape is rugged and often wet and muddy. Always wear sturdy footwear (flip flops are not ideal for hiking), pack for all weathers and be sure to have water and snacks to hand. Be aware of your surroundings so as not to get lost, and make sure you take your litter away with you.

---

RELATED CONTENT

If spending more time in or around Snowdonia, take a look at some other areas for simple hikes and walks.

Take AN AFTERNOON WALK IN SNOWDONIA from Beddgelert.

Explore the UNESCO World Heritage slate landscape of Wales with A WALK TO DINORWIC SLATE QUARRY FROM LLANBERIS

Venture north of Ogwen Valley for some EASY HIKES IN THE NORTHERN CARNEDDAU MOUNTAINS

---

SOCIALS

If you enjoyed this article and found it useful please leave a comment in the box below or Pin one of the images below to PINTEREST.

For regular photo updates on my travels, follow my account on INSTAGRAM.

Scroll down (on mobile) to subscribe and get new post alerts directly to your inbox. If you’re on desktop, head to the right hand sidebar and pop in your email address.