Walking along the waterside wooden jetties, rows of red wooden buildings and fishing boats reflected perfectly in the glass like water of the sheltered harbour. The sun hung above the line of mountains to the north, providing a warm light and casting long shadows. It was almost midnight in Northern Norway, the land of the midnight sun. A rocky outcrop behind the red fishermen’s huts was home to ten sleek and modern wooden cabins, elevated up above the resort. We spent the night in a Hillside Cabin at Hattvika Lodge in Ballstad, a fishing town in the Lofoten Islands.
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ABOUT HATTVIKA LODGE
Tucked away into the sheltered, rocky shoreline of Ballstad in the Lofoten Islands, HATTVIKA LODGE is a gem of a property. Located in an inlet, the resort features a number of rorbu, the iconic red fishermen’s cottages, alongside larger accommodations and a number of sleek and modern hillside cabins raised above the remainder of the property. With wooden walkways over the water, a sauna with views out over the harbour and an innovative fine dining restaurant experience, Hattvika Lodge is a wonderful base to spend some time in Lofoten. Some of the Hattvika Lodge rorbu cabins date back to the 1870’s, now rebuilt and recreated to offer comfortable surroundings for the modern traveller, while retaining the charm and history of the buildings.
Located centrally in the harbour, Hattvika Lodge doesn’t shy away from its industrial surroundings – it embraces it. Möller’s fish oil factory sits directly across the harbour – perhaps not the most beautiful view from some of the cabins, but a reminder that you’re located in the heart of Norway’s fishing industry. There’s even a Möller’s Tasting Depot next to the reception building, where you can sample a range of this cod liver oil, packed with Omega 3.
Opened in 2017, Hattvika Lodge was created by husband and wife team Kristian Bøe and Guri Jentoft, who has close links with the property. What they have created is a destination, a wonderful basecamp for exploring the Lofoten Islands, but also a place to relax, enjoy and indulge.
STAYING IN THE HILLSIDE CABINS
Arriving at Hattvika Lodge, we couldn’t have asked for a warmer welcome and were shown to our home for the night, Hillside Cabin #6. Located on an elevated part of the resort, sleek hillside cabins are set out in a circular layout, each offering a different viewpoint over the surrounding landscapes. A few days into our Lofoten Islands road trip, we’d spent the previous nights in a traditional rorbu, so we wanted to experience the modern and stylish vibes of hillside, rather than the historic cabins.
Added to Hattvika Lodge’s accommodation portfolio in 2020, the hillside cabins stood out against the surrounding traditional red cabins. The sleek finish of weathered silvery timber and a simple angular design were striking. Stepping inside, the spacious cabins were simply decorated with a modern and contemporary fit out. Dark wooden flooring led the way through the cabin towards a door opening onto a small balcony, passing a king size bed, side chair and table. Next to the balcony, a huge picture window with window seat was the perfect spot to lounge and gaze out at the views. With a large bathroom featuring walk in shower with rainforest head, this modern room had everything we needed for the stay.
VISIT THE HATTVIKA LODGE WEBSITE FOR MORE INFORMATION ABOUT ACCOMMODATION OPTIONS
FINE DINING AT FANGST RESTAURANT
Having checked in, explored a little and freshened up, we were ready for dinner. Hattvika Lodge’s main building acts as a combined lobby, bar and restaurant, along with a small gift shop area. Featuring seating areas either side of the entrance, perfect to lounge with a coffee or a beer, the large open plan space also features a bar, and the properties exquisite dining experience at the FANGST restaurant. With a heavy focus on sustainability and supporting local producers, the ‘from sea to table’ ethos ensures fresh and local produce is used on the seasonally changing menu.
The set menu options were self explanatory – Sea, Land or Garden. As well as the addition of a tasting menu option, the evening was focused around the experience as well as the food. Seated next to a large glazed wall overlooking the harbour, we could sit and watch the fishing boats returning, while waiting for our dishes. With breads to start, amouse bouche, followed by entrees, mains and desserts, all dishes were creative, perfectly presented and exploding with flavour. Staff were attentive and thorough with their descriptions of each dish. The main courses were served by the chef – a lovely touch. Washed down with their wine recommendations, the whole experience was impressive and enjoyable.
A MIDNIGHT SUN WALK AROUND HATTVIKA LODGE
Having retired to the lounge area for an after dinner drink, we decided to take an evening stroll around the resort. Visiting in June provided the opportunity to experience one of the unique features of staying north of the Arctic circle – the midnight sun. Between the 28th May and 14th July, the sun doesn’t set in the Lofoten Islands. Taking a few days for the body clock to get used to, having daylight for 24 hours a day was quite a strange experience.
Exploring Hattvika Lodge past 11pm at night felt very much like late afternoon. With the sun hanging low in the north western sky, a golden glow hung in the air and long shadows were cast across the wooden walkways and jetties. Walking around the enclosed harbour, the water was perfectly still apart from the occasional fish jumping to catch flies. The fishing boats docked across the harbour, along with their backdrop of wooden red buildings and distant mountains cast reflections in the glassy water. It was serene.
A LITTLE MORE ABOUT HATTVIKA LODGE
THINGS TO DO AT HATTVIKA LODGE | Hattvika Lodge is the perfect base for outdoor adventurers to experience what the Lofoten Islands have to offer, whether in summer or winter. From sea kayaking to mountain hiking, or simply exploring and enjoying the stunning white sand beaches of the islands, the team at Hattvika Lodge are able to assist with all your needs. As our stay was only for one night, we didn’t have the time to experience any of the activities directly from the resort, but definitely will when we return.
GETTING TO THE LOFOTEN ISLANDS FROM THE UK | There are several ways to reach the Lofoten Islands from the United Kingdom, such as flying or taking a ferry. The islands are home to numerous ports and airports. With no direct flights to the Lofoten Islands from UK airports, finding an option with connecting flights (in Oslo) on the same day, in both directions was a little challenging. As a result, reservations for departing and return flights were made with different airlines. We took SAS out of Manchester Airport and Norwegian back, with same-day connections and convenient flight schedules. We flew into Harstad Narvik airport in Evenes, located to very eastern end of the Lofoten Islands and just across onto the mainland. With direct access from the airport to the E10 road, it was ideal. The drive from the airport to Hattvika Lodge is approximately 3 hours, 45 minutes.
GETTING AROUND THE LOFOTEN ISLANDS | Driving is the most convenient way to explore the Lofoten Islands. Picking up a rental car from SixT was a simple and quick process from Harstad Narvik airport. It takes approximately four and a half hours to travel the 295 km from the airport to the village of Å at the southernmost points of the islands without stopping. We made pour journey south across two days, and returned back via the islands for the rest of the week. Another way to get to the Lofoten Islands is by ferry. Cruise ships that are travelling the Norwegian coast frequently stop off at the islands, and the Hurtigruten cruise ships that are on the Original Coastal Express route visit many ports in Lofoten every day.
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